How to Grow and Care for Narcissus -- Garden Chronicle

Facebook Tweet Pin

Narcissus is a genus of about 50 species of bulbous perennials. All are grown for their attractive flowers, borne in spring, sometimes in autumn or winter.

Narcissus with single, long trumpet-like flowers is called daffodils. Those with clusters of small flowers on each stalk are called narcissi. There is little botanical difference between daffodils and narcissi.

Narcissus are easy-to-grow, long-lived plants. Individual flowers last for several weeks in cool weather. There are early-season, mid-season, and late-season varieties. There is short and tall growing narcissus.

Narcissus have leafless stems that bear between 1 and 20 flowers. Each flower has six spreading petals that form a flat or long and narrow cup. The flowers are mostly yellow or white, some have red, orange, or pink coronas. The leaves are basal, often strap-shaped.

Narcissus are hardy. Most narcissi need a climate with a cold winter in order to bloom. After flowers finish blooming, it is best to leave the foliage in place for several months; this allows the bulb to store energy to develop the next year’s flowers.

'King Alfred' Daffodil (Narcissus) — ‘King Alfred’ Daffodil (*Narcissus*)

Table of Contents

Get to know Narcissus, daffodils

Plant type: Hardy spring-blooming bulb
Growing Zones and range: 3-11; most types will grow in Zones 4-8; paperwhites are best in Zones 9-11.
Hardiness: Half-hardy; most types withstand heat by needing cold winters.
Height and width: 4 to 18 inches (10-45cm) tall, 4 to 10 inches (10-25cm) wide
Foliage: Narrow, flat, and strap-shaped leaves from the base of the plant
Flower form: A central corona shaped like a trumpet or a low cup is surrounded by 6 pointed outer petals. Depending on the variety, each flowering stem holds either a large single blossom or a cluster of 2 to 8 smaller ones. Flowers bloom on a leafless stem.
Flower colors: Flowers are mostly yellow or white, some have red, orange, or pink coronas.
Bloom time: Spring for most types, winter for paperwhites
Uses: Beds, borders, cutting
Common name: Narcissus, daffodils
Botanical name: Narcissus spp.
Family: Amaryllidaceae
Origin: Europe and North Africa

Where to plant Narcissus, daffodils

Plant narcissus and daffodils in full sun; late bloomers will grow under the shade of deciduous trees or in dappled light
Grow narcissus and daffodils in humus-rich, well-drained soil that is neutral to slightly acidic.
Narcissus prefers a soil pH of 6 to 7.

Paperwhite, Narcissus 'Nir' — Paperwhite, *Narcissus* ‘Nir’

When to plant Narcissus, daffodils

Plant narcissus and daffodils in mid-autumn in Zones 3-7; plant in late autumn to early winter in Zones 8-11.
Plant seeds in late spring in nursery beds where they will be naturalized.

Planting and spacing Narcissus, daffodils

Plant narcissus and daffodils 5 to 8 inches (12-20cm) deep depending on the variety. Work compost and bulb fertilizer into the planting hole.
A good rule of thumb is to plant narcissus bulbs two to three times deeper than the length.
Space narcissus and daffodils 6 to 12 inches (15-30cm) apart depending on the size of the variety at maturity.
To naturalize bulbs in grassy areas or beds, toss them onto the ground wherever plants are wanted and plant them where they fall; use a bulb planter to least disturb the surrounding area.
Sow seed outdoors 2 inches (5cm) apart, 1/8 inch deep in tilled soil. Fresh seeds will germinate quickly but plants will not bloom for four or more years.

How to water and feed Narcissus, daffodils

Daffodils and narcissus want ample water during growth and bloom; keep the soil evenly moist, but not wet. The soil can nearly dry out after plants go dormant in summer. Resume water in the fall.
Add bulb fertilizer or bonemeal to the planting hole at planting time; work bulb fertilizer into the soil each spring.

Jonquilla daffodil, Narcissus x 'Silver Smiles' — Jonquilla daffodil, *Narcissus* x ‘Silver Smiles’

Narcissus, daffodils care

After bloom, keep moist and fertilize at least once with a balanced fertilizer.
Deadhead plants or cut flowers send energy back to the bulb.
Allow leaves to yellow and die; this allows bulbs to store nutrients for the next season.
Protect narcissus in winter by mulching with 6 inches (15cm) of shredded leaves, pine needles, or straw. Remove the mulch in stages as winter ends allowing shoots to emerge.

Forcing Narcissus and daffodils

To force daffodils, lift the bulbs at the end of summer. Keep them in a warm, dry place until you are ready to begin forcing. Plant several bulbs in a pot; the point of tall bulbs can be above the soil; small bulbs should be covered with an inch of soil. Water and place them in a cool place at 38° to 45°F (3.3-7.2°C). Roots will form in 10 weeks, plants can then be set in a cool, bright room to grow and flower.
To force paperwhites, plant them in pots of soil or set them in dishes of gravel or [roopped in glasses of water and growth them in a bright sunlit room between 50° and 70°F (10-21°C).

Growing Narcissus, daffodils as houseplants

You can purchase plants or force bulbs into bloom yourself.
To force bulbs into bloom, plant them in a well-drained soilless medium in fall, with the tip of the bulb 1 inch below the surface of the medium.
Tazetta daffodils can be forced using pebbles as the medium.
Water well and place the pots outdoors, buried in the ground, or protected in a cold frame for 10 to 12 weeks.
If the outdoor temperature does not drop to 35°F, bulbs must be placed in the refrigerator.
Move the pots into a room with average temperature, direct light, and average humidity.
Bulbs will bloom in 10 days to three weeks. During this time, and until the flowers fade, keep the growing medium evenly moist
Fertilizing is not necessary.
Tall plants may need to be staked.
After flowers fade the bulbs can be replanted in the garden; they can not be forced again indoors.

Narcissus, daffodils pests and diseases

Narcissus can be attacked by spider mites.
Bulb rot and root rot can occur.

Narcissus, daffodil propagation

Divide bulbs when plants become crowded and flower size begins to decrease, about once every four or five years.
Dig bulbs for division carefully to avoid injuring the bulbs. Gently pull clumps apart with your hand. Discard shriveled or diseased bulbs
Replant bulbs immediately or store them in a dry, airy location for replanting in autumn.

Narcissus, daffodils varieties to grow

There are hundreds of narcissus cultivars. Growers and hybridizers have divided the cultivars into 13 divisions by sizes, flower forms, and colorings. Flower form divisions include trumpet, large-cupped, small-cupped, double, and split corona.
Trumpet and large-cups daffodil hybrids are most commonly available and hardy in Zones 3-9, but not where summers are wet.
Classic, easy-to-grow daffodils include ‘King Alfred’ (yellow), ‘Mount Hood’ (white), ‘Binkie’ (yellow with a white trumpet), ‘Actaea’ (white with red-gold eye).
Smaller narcissi are classes as trumpet, large-cupped, small-cupped, double, triandrus (clustered), cyclamineus (small, reverse-flared), jonquilla (clustered with trumpets), tazetta/paperwhites (clustered, flat cupped), poeticus (pheasant’s eye), species and wild types, and other for those that can not be classified. Large-cupped, small-cupped, trumpet at the most commonly available narcissi.

Narcissus hybrids — Trumpet and large-cup daffodils

Garden hybrid daffodils bloom in early spring before tree leaves emerge. The classic daffodil blossom is the long-trumpeted yellow ‘King Alfred,’ but there are many variations such as long-cup, short-cup, split-cup, and double. Colors include white, pale to bright yellow, and bicolors or tricolors with orange-red, peach, or pink. The strap-shaped leaves emerge before the flower stems and are usually somewhat shorter. The sweetly fragrant blossoms make excellent cut flowers.

Size: 14 inches to 1 2/3 feet tall
Light: Full sun to light shade in spring from deciduous trees. Pink-flowered types retain color best in part shade.
Soil and moisture: Humus-rich, well-drained, neutral to slightly acidic soil. Regular moisture when growing and blooming; drier during summer dormancy.
Planting and propagation: In cold-winter areas, plant bulbs in late summer to early fall, 6 to 8 inches deep and 4 to 6 inches apart. In areas with fall and mild winters, plant in November.
Special care: Do not remove foliage until it yellows. Do not braid foliage as is sometimes advised to increase tidiness. Cut off faded flowers.
Pest and diseases: Root and bulb rot, mosaic virus, and narcissus bulb fly can be troublesome. Usually not eaten by rodents.
Climate: Zones 3-9; not well-adapted where summers are wet.
Cultivars: The flat petals are called the perianth; the trumpet or cup, and the corona. (Color code: perianth/corona.) Trumpet: ‘King Alfred,’ yellow/yellow, 1 1/3 to 1 2/3 feet tall; ‘Mt. Hood,’ opens creamy yellow, turns white, 1 1/3 feet tall; ‘Spellbinder,’ sulfur yellow/white, 1 1/3 to 1 ½ feet tall. Large cup: ‘Accent,’ white/salmon-pink, 14 inches to 1 1/3 feet tall; ‘Rosy Wonder,’ white/pink, 1 1/3 to 1 ½ feet tall, often two flowers per stem; ‘Daydream,’ pale yellow/white, 14 inches to 1 1/3 feet tall; ‘Carlton,’ yellow/ yellow, naturalizes well, 1 ½ to 1 2/3 feet tall; ‘Ice Follies,’ creamy white/light yellow, naturalizes well, 16 to 19 inches tall. Short cup: ‘Barret Browning,’ creamy white/orange, 1 1/3 feet tall, early. Double: ‘Cheerfulness,’ white/ creamy yellow, 14 inches to 1 1/3 feet tall; ‘Ice King,’ opens creamy yellow, turns white, 1 1/3 to 1 ½ feet tall.
Garden use: Plant in groups of 10 or more in borders, woodlands, and meadows. Interplant with daylilies or hostas to hide fading foliage. Allow to naturalize under deep-rooted deciduous trees.

Narcissus jonquilla — Jonquil

Jonquils are the most fragrant narcissus. Jonquils bear small, sweet-scented, golden-yellow small-cupped flowers, up to six on a stem in early spring. The narrow, rushlike leaves are dark green. Jonquils like hot summer weather and are more likely than most narcissus to thrive in the South.

Size: 1 foot tall.
Light: Full sun to light shade.
Soil and moisture: Humus-rich, well-drained, neutral to slightly acidic soil. Regular moisture when growing and blooming; drier during summer dormancy.
Planting and propagation: In cold-winter areas, plant bulbs in late summer to early fall, 6 to 8 inches deep and 4 to 6 inches apart. In areas with warm falls and mild winters, plant in November.
Special care: Do not remove foliage until it dies back. Do not tie it in knots. Remove faded flowers.
Pest and diseases: Root and bulb rot, mosaic virus, and narcissus bulb fly are sometimes troublesome. Usually not eaten by rodents.
Climate: Zones 4-9 in the east; to Zone 11 in the west.
Cultivars: (Color code: perianth/corona.) ‘Suzy,’ yellow/Deep orange, 1 1/3 feet tall; ‘Bell Song,’ creamy white/pink, 1 1/3 feet tall; ‘Baby Moon,’ pale yellow/pale yellow, 7 inches tall; ‘Pipit,’ light yellow white, 7 inches tall.
Garden use: Plant in groups of 10 or more in borders and rock gardens.

Narcissus triandrus — Angel’s tears

Narcissus triandrus is a wild narcissus native to Portugal and Spain. The plant bears several white to pale yellow flowers on each stem and blooms in late spring, after most other narcissus are finished. The narrow leaves are about a foot long. Cultivars share the species’ delicate, medium to long trumpeted form and may be white, yellow, or bicolored.

Size: 10 inches to 1 ½ feet tall.
Light: Full sun to light shade.
Soil and moisture: Humus-rich, well-drained soil. Regular moisture when growing and blooming; drier in summer dormancy.
Planting and propagation: In cold-winter areas, plant bulbs in late summer to early fall, 5 to 6 inches deep and 6 to 8 inches apart. In areas with warm falls and mild winters, plant in November.
Special care: Do not remove foliage until it yellows. Do not braid foliage. Remove faded flowers.
Pest and diseases: Root and bulb rot, mosaic virus, and narcissus bulb fly are sometimes troublesome. Usually not eaten by rodents.
Climate: Hardy in zones 4-9; to zone 11 in the West.
Cultivars: ‘Thalia’ (orchid narcissus), pure white with up to five pendants, lightly fragrant blossoms per stem, 1 ½ feet tall; ‘Ice Wings,’ ivory-white, scented, 1 foot tall; ‘Hawera,’ lemon-yellow, very fragrant, 10 inches tall; ‘Liberty Bells,’ soft yellow, 12 to 14 inches tall; ‘Tuesday’s Child,’ clear white and yellow 14 inches to 1 1/3 feet tall.
Garden use: Plant in groups of 12 or more in the midground of borders and in groundcover plantings; naturalize in woodland, meadow, or rock gardens.

Narcissus x cyclamenius — Cyclamen daffodil

One parent of the hybrid cyclamen daffodil is N. cyclamenius, a 4- to 8-inch-tall species with long, bright yellow trumpets and perianth segments that flare backward. Hybrid cyclamen daffodils are generally taller and come in a variety of colors and combinations; all have recurved perianths and long trumpets. Cyclamen daffodils are the first daffodils to bloom from late winter through early spring. This plant bears one blossom per stem.

Size: 5 inches to 1 ½ feet tall; mostly 10 inches to 1 foot tall.
Light: Full sun to light shade.
Soil and moisture: Humus-rich, well-drained, neutral to slightly acidic soil. Regular moisture when growing and blooming: drier during summer dormancy.
Planting and propagation: In cold-winter areas, plant bulbs in late summer to early fall, 5 to 8 inches deep and 3 to 6 inches apart. In areas with warm fall and mild winters, plant in November.
Special care: Do not remove foliage until it dies back. Do not braid foliage. Remove faded blossoms.
Pest and diseases: Root and bulb rot, mosaic virus, and narcissus bulb are occasionally troublesome. Usually not eaten by rodents.
Climate: Zones 6-9 in eats; to zone 11 in the West.
Cultivars: (Color code: perianth/corona) ‘February Gold,’ yellow/yellow, 1 foot tall, good naturalizer; ‘February Silver,’ white/yellow fading white, 1 foot tall; ‘Tete-a Tete,’ yellow/yellow, 5 to 7 inches tall, two flowers per stem, not as swept back; ‘Jack Snipe,’ white/yellow, 8 to 10 inches tall; ‘Jenny,’ white/white, 10 inches tall; ‘March Sunshine,’ yellow/orange, 10 inches tall; ‘Peeping Tom,’ golden yellow/golden yellow, 10 inches tall.
Garden use: Plant in groups of 10 or more along walkways and in borders, woodlands, and rock gardens.

Narcissus x poeticus — Pheasant’s-eye narcissus, poet’s narcissus

Narcissus x poeticus is a sweetly fragrant mid- to late spring-blooming narcissus. It bears one flower to a stem. The perianth is pure white, surrounding a very short, pale yellow cup edged in red. Cultivars retain the white perianth but feature variously colored coronas. Leaves are narrow and blue-green.

Size: 1 to 1 ½ feet tall.
Light: Full sun to light shade from deep-rooted deciduous trees.
Soil and moisture: Humus-rich, well-drained neutral to slightly acidic soil. Regular moisture when growing and blooming; drier during summer dormancy. Adapts better to poorly drained soil than most narcissus.
Planting and propagation: In cold-winter areas, plant bulbs in late summer to early fall, 6 to 8 inches deep and 4 to 6 inches apart. In areas with warm fall and mild winters, plant in November.
Special care: Do not remove foliage until it dies back. Do not braid foliage. Remove faded blossoms.
Pest and diseases: Root and bulb rot, mosaic virus, and narcissus bulb fly are sometimes troublesome. Usually not troubled by rodents.
Climate: Zones 4-9 in the east; to Zone 11 in the West.
Cultivars: (Color code: perianth/corona.) ‘Actaea,’ white/yellow with red edge, flowers 3 inches across, 1 1/3 to 1 ½ feet tall; ‘Pheasant’s Eye’ (‘Poeticus Recurvus’) white/yellow, edged with green orange centers, 14 inches tall.
Garden use: Front to midground in border, woodland, meadow, and rock gardens and in containers.

Narcissus x tazetta — Tazetta narcissus, paperwhite narcissus

Hybrids N. x tazetta bears fragrant, small shallow-cupped flowers. Several flowers are borne on each tall, slender stem. Flower color varies from white to deep yellow, with a smooth or ruffled shallow corona, which is orange or the same color as the perianth. The bright white tazetta hybrid ‘Paperwhite’ is commonly forced in winter; the flowers are sweetly scented.

Size: 1 to 1 2/3 feet tall.
Light: Full sun to light shade in spring from deciduous deep-rooted trees.
Soil and moisture: Humus-rich, well-drained soil. Regular moisture when the plant is growing and blooming: drier during summer dormancy.
Planting and propagation: Plant bulbs in the fall, 3 to 5 inches deep and 6 to 8 inches apart.
Special care: Do not remove foliage until it dies back. Do not tie in knots. Remove faded flowers.
Pest and diseases: Root and bulb rot, mosaic virus, and narcissus bulb fly are occasionally troublesome. Usually not eaten by rodents.
Climate: N. tazetta to Zones 7-11; some cultivars to Zone 5. Poorly adapted where summers are wet. Better in the south than many narcissus because does not need a long, cold dormant period.
Cultivars: (Color code: perianth/corona,) ‘Paperwhite,’ white/white, 1 1/3 feet tal; ‘Grand Soleil d’Oro,’ yellow/orange, 1 1/3 feet tall; ‘Minnow,’ pale yellow/yellow, 8 to 10 inches tall; ‘Geranium,’ white/orange, 15 to 17 inches tall; ‘White Pearl’ white/ white; ‘Cragford,’ white/orange, 12 to 14 inches tall.
Garden use: Plant in groups of 10 or more in borders, woodlands, meadows, and rock gardens. Interplant with hostas or daylilies to hide fading foliage.

Narcissus frequently asked questions

Q: How can I grow narcissus as a house plant?

A: Buy bulbs from a reliable source; this will ensure they have been well-grown. Plant in moist bulb fiber, or place in dishes of water and pebbles to which bits of charcoal have been added. Place the bulbs in a cool dark closet or cellar until growth starts. As roots develop bring the plant to more light. Keep it cool. When foliage growth begins to develop, place the plant in a cool, sunny window.

Q: Why do narcissus growing indoors get tall and lanky?

A: They are being grown at too high temperatures. The best daytime temperature is 65° to 70°F. the lower the temperature, the shorter the plants. Moving the plants to a cool garage at night will help keep growth lower and will prolong the bloom time after the flowers open.

Q: Why do narcissus bulbs growing indoors in winter have only leaves and no flowers?

A: The likely reason is that the temperature is too warm.

Q: Can I force next year the narcissus bulbs I forced indoors this year?

A: No. The bulbs will not rebloom indoors a second time. You can plant them in soil outdoors and they may bloom outdoors.

Also of interest:

11 Types of Daffodils for Your Garden

Related articles: